The world of tea is remarkably varied. Even though all tea leaves come from the same plant, the Camellia sinensis, not all black teas are alike. Different flavours, varying levels of bitterness, production methods, harvests, countries of origin... here is a guide to help you find the black tea that is right for you.
- Black tea producing countries
- How black tea is made
- Harvesting tea leaves
- The different varieties of black tea
Black tea producing countries
China is the country that first comes to mind when we think of tea. Yet when it comes to black tea specifically, other regions of the world are equally worth exploring.
Chinese black teas
China is the world's leading producer of green, white and black tea.
Black tea, which the Chinese call red tea because of the colour it gives to the water, is primarily grown for export.
The country's many provinces yield a wide range of black tea varieties. Among the most celebrated: Keemun, Lapsang Souchong, and Yunnan.
Oolong is also widely known, though it is not strictly a black tea. Because the leaves are only partially oxidised, Oolong sits somewhere between green and black tea.
Japan, another land of tea
Tea production is also significant in Japan, though it focuses primarily on green teas, including the celebrated Matcha and Sencha, both renowned for their many health benefits.
Black tea production in Japan is a relatively recent development.
As in China, the Japanese also refer to it as red tea, after the colour it imparts to the water (not to be confused with Rooibos).
The most appreciated Japanese black teas tend to be smoked varieties, such as Japan Lapsang.
Indian black tea
India is the world's second largest tea producer after China, and its black teas enjoy a well-deserved reputation.
They are grown in gardens, most often at altitude. The cooler temperatures slow the growth of the tea plant's leaves, giving the black tea a distinct character even within the same variety.
The most celebrated Indian black teas are Assam and Darjeeling.
How black tea is made
The production process plays a key role in the quality of the final cup.
The traditional oxidation method (the term "fermentation" is often used loosely when referring to black tea, though it is not strictly accurate) produces teas of true distinction.
Other methods exist that are faster and less costly, known as CTC. Black teas produced this way are certainly more affordable, but they often disappoint on the palate.
Traditional oxidation of black tea
When the Chinese speak of fermenting black tea, they mean something quite different from the Western understanding.
The black tea we drink in the West is essentially a green tea whose leaves have undergone oxidation. True fermentation applies only to very specific teas. Pu-erh, for instance, is a genuinely fermented tea.
It is worth noting that tea leaves begin to oxidise from the moment they are picked, right through to the fixing stage. Several steps are involved in producing a tea with the desired level of oxidation:
- withering;
- rolling;
- fixing or roasting.
The CTC method: faster oxidation for black tea
Standing for Crushing, Tearing and Curling, this process automates black tea production. Less respectful of the leaf than the orthodox method, the resulting tea is intended mainly for tea bags.
While the quality can occasionally be acceptable, the flavour lacks the refinement of traditionally processed teas. These teas do tend to be more affordable at point of purchase, reflecting their lower production costs.
Harvesting tea leaves
One of the key indicators of tea quality is the picking. Hand-picking is naturally preferable to mechanical harvesting, but it is not the only factor at play.
The right season for harvesting tea leaves
The tea harvest does not follow the same calendar in every region.
Some areas can pick leaves year-round, while others, constrained by their latitude, must wait for spring.
During the winter months, reduced sunlight causes the tea plants to enter dormancy, so the harvest begins in spring. This is the case in Darjeeling, India, and in Japan.
Why is spring tea considered superior?
The reason is straightforward: the rise of sap through the plant produces fresh, vegetal notes and a flavour that is truly unique. These early harvests are eagerly awaited by connoisseurs.
Methods of picking tea leaves
Spring tea is also prized for the way it is picked. Two methods in particular are highly regarded:
- imperial picking;
- fine picking.
Imperial picking involves harvesting only the bud and the first shoot beneath it. Fine picking includes the bud and the next two leaves.
Beyond the flavour they bring to the cup, both methods also help preserve the tea's health benefits.
Young shoots produce antioxidants to protect themselves from sunlight, and they alone account for 80% of the antioxidants generated by the tea plant.
Coarse picking covers the first three to four leaves of the plant and is used to produce more affordable teas.
Black tea grades
Black tea has its own classification system. Knowing the garden a tea comes from is not always enough to determine the quality of the picking, since black tea is often sold as a blend. A blend combines several tea varieties to balance the flavour and achieve a specific character. For this reason, a dedicated grading system has been developed:
- Souchong refers to the larger, lower leaves.
- In the Pekoe grade, the leaves are finer.
- Flowery Pekoe (FP) designates leaves rolled into small balls.
- Orange Pekoe (OP) refers to young leaves from a late fine picking.
- Flowery Orange Pekoe (FOP) is the highest grade (with even finer distinctions in certain regions), covering the harvest of buds and the first two leaves.
The different varieties of black tea
Black tea is wonderfully diverse. In principle, black tea can be produced from any plantation in any region, but certain varieties have earned recognition through their exceptional quality. Whether you prefer a pure tea, a blend, or a flavoured tea, there is something for everyone.
Smoked black teas
Smoked black tea is made from oxidised leaves that are rolled and then smoked, often over spruce wood. These teas are widely loved and lend themselves beautifully to a range of culinary uses. The most celebrated are Lapsang Souchong from China and Japan Lapsang. That said, any black tea can be smoked, and smoked varieties can be found from every corner of the world.
Assam black tea
Grown in India, Assam black tea is an ideal breakfast tea. The British have long known this, enjoying it in the morning with a splash of milk. Its flavour is full-bodied, with a gentle bitterness. It is produced in the low-lying Assam region, where the climate allows the tea plants to be highly productive.
Assam leaves are often harvested in two flushes. The second is generally considered the finer of the two and is known as Tippy Tea, named after the golden tips that appear on the leaves.
Darjeeling black tea
Arguably the most celebrated black tea from India, Darjeeling is grown in hillside gardens at altitude on the slopes of the Himalayas. It is widely regarded as one of the finest black teas in the world, sometimes called the "champagne of teas". It offers delicate fruity notes of muscat and almond.
Earl Grey black tea
The famous Earl Grey is, in fact, a blend of different black teas. It may include smoked teas such as Lapsang Souchong, Darjeeling, Ceylon, and sometimes even Oolong. The composition varies, but bergamot is always present, making it a flavoured tea. Earl Grey is enormously popular in England, and various legends surround its origins and the story behind its name.
Ceylon tea
Another tea known the world over, Ceylon tea is grown in Sri Lanka (Ceylon being the former name of the island), once a British colony. It is something of a special case: while Ceylon tea was originally synonymous with black tea, green and white Ceylon teas can now be found as well. It is the black variety, however, for which it remains best known. Sri Lanka also grades its teas according to the altitude at which they are grown: low, high and mid-grown.
These differences give each Ceylon tea its own distinct character.